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Skin firmness depends on the volume of the dermis and the quality of its interactions with the epidermis, particularly at the dermal-epidermal junction. This anchoring zone contributes to the skin’s resistance and its smooth, plump appearance. At the heart of this virtuous dynamic is an interdependent network of a vital protein: collagen. But what exactly is collagen and what skincare products are best to boost it?
WHAT IS COLLAGEN?
Collagen is a protein in the body that is responsible for structure, strength, and support. It gives the skin fresh,
plump and firm look, providing elasticity and protecting it from sagging. There are different types of collagen in the skin located in the dermis and epidermis. They are all complementary, as they have neither the same properties nor the same action on firmness. They play an essential role in the architecture of the skin’s various layers. Unfortunately, with time and environmental factors, skin’s protein renewal process diminishes.
WOMEN’S SKIN – COLLAGEN LOSS
During the ageing process, various changes affect and reduce natural collagen production.
• Age-related biological changes: loss of epidermal collagen, the collapse of the dermal-epidermal junction due to the reduction in collagen types IV and VII, and the destructuring of the dermis due to the decrease in collagen types I and III are all factors that contribute to skin sagging.
• Hormonal impregnation, particularly during menopause, plays a role in reducing the level of collagen in the skin due to oestrogen deprivation.
• The environment: UV rays, pollution and smoking induce the excessive production of free radicals that damage skin collagen. The accumulation of these effects over decades accelerates sagging. Carbonylation and glycation also alter the metabolism of skin collagen, leading to permanent loss of functionality.
From the age of 25 we gradually lose 1% of collagen annually. In fact, compared to younger skin, mature skin produces fewer collagen fibres, while the process of collagen fibre destruction increases! This reduction accelerates during menopause – during the first 5 years of menopause women lose around 30% of collagen. Effect? Less defined face shape, especially in the jawline, sagging skin, loss of firmness, loss of elasticity and more wrinkles. Stimulating dermal collagen is not enough to guarantee lasting firming efficacy: collagen must be stimulated at all levels to provide an overall response to skin sagging.
COLLAGEN BENEFITS FOR WOMEN
To effectively improve firmness, 5 different types of collagen in all skin layers need to be stimulated:
collagen type XVII improves epidermal quality, boosts skin resistance, and contributes to the quality of epidermal renewal.
Collagen types IV and VII strengthen cohesion between cell layers and improve the skin’s resistance to age-related physiological distension.
Collagen types I and III increase dermal volume to tighten and smooth the skin’s surface.
When the biological mechanisms responsible for the skin’s natural firmness are stimulated from within, a ’push-up’ effect is produced from the dermis to the epidermis, naturally acting on firmness. The skin becomes lifted, firmer and smoother on the surface.
COLLAGEN SERUMS & CREAMS
Collagen, in its native form found in the skin & in creams or serums does not have the ability to penetrate the skin. As the molecule is too big, it will only create a surface action on the epidermis, smoothing the skin and fine lines. Its efficacy is therefore very limited. We need to find another active ingredient to effectively boost collagen production, while protecting the skin from further collagen reduction. This ingredient is peptides.
PEPTIDES – THE POWER INGREDIENT
Peptides are short amino acid chains and the building blocks of our body’s proteins. When applied topically, peptides act as small biological messengers, giving skin cells a signal to perform specific functions. They stimulate the natural synthesis of collagen. They are a real game-changers in skincare. However, peptides differ with their potential to penetrate multitude skin layers (especially the dermis), as well as with their ability to boosting the production of different types of collagen. That’s why it is important to carefully choose peptide serum and peptide cream.
NEW INTENSIVE PRO-COLLAGEN+ RANGE
The new Intensive Pro-Collagen+ is a clinically proven, revolutionary lifting range that boosts 5 types of collagen throughout all 3 layers of the skin. Designed with Pro-Coll+ Technology, formulated with multi-peptides and a biomimetic sugar, it offers an immediate improvement in the appearance of skin’s firmness and face oval, for a timeless skincare approach. As in all Institut Esthederm products, the formula is based on Cellular Water Technology that mimics the water present in our skin and optimises skin cell energy to the level of young cells.
12/08/2024 
